Many visitors come to Seoul and only see Gyeongbokgung, which is a magnificent choice, but they often miss the unique charm and history of the other four. Each palace tells a different story—one of power, one of nature, one of tragedy, and one of resilience. This guide is born from my own travels and countless hours spent wandering these historic grounds. I want to share my personal experiences, practical advice, and the little details I discovered along the way, so you can explore these beautiful sites with a deeper understanding and appreciation. Forget generic travel guides; this is your insider’s look at the heart of Joseon Dynasty Korea.
1. Gyeongbokgung Palace: The Royal Centerpiece
Gyeongbokgung, often called the "Northern Palace," is the largest and arguably the most famous of the five. Its name translates to "Palace Greatly Blessed by Heaven," and you can feel that sense of grandeur from the moment you approach its main gate. As a first-time visitor, I was truly overwhelmed by its sheer scale. It was the principal palace and the seat of government for the Joseon Dynasty, and its architecture and layout reflect that supreme authority.
History & Significance
Founded in 1395, Gyeongbokgung was the first and most important of the royal palaces. It served as the home of the royal family and the political hub until it was largely destroyed by fire during the Imjin War (Japanese invasions of Korea) in the late 16th century. For centuries, it lay in ruins until a massive reconstruction project in the 19th century brought it back to its former glory. This history of destruction and rebirth gives the palace an incredible sense of resilience. I felt this most keenly while walking through the restored halls, imagining the immense effort it must have taken to rebuild it.
Key Highlights
- Gwanghwamun Gate and the Royal Guard Changing Ceremony:This is an absolute must-see. I made a point of arriving early for the ceremony, and the sight of the royal guards in their colorful traditional uniforms performing the intricate rituals was a truly spectacular and authentic experience. The synchronized movements and the rhythmic sound of the drums transported me back in time.
- Geunjeongjeon (Throne Hall):The main throne hall is a sight to behold. Its vast courtyard, surrounded by stone markers indicating the ranks of officials, gives you a sense of the immense power dynamics at play during official court proceedings. The ornate ceiling and the king's throne are meticulously detailed, and I spent a long time just admiring the craftsmanship.
- Gyeonghoeru Pavilion:This picturesque pavilion, set on a man-made pond, is an architectural masterpiece. It was used for royal banquets and state events. I was fortunate enough to secure a spot on a special tour (which you must book months in advance!) and walking across the bridge to the pavilion felt like stepping into a painting. The view of the palace and the surrounding mountains from within was breathtaking.
- Hyangwonjeong Pavilion:This small, elegant pavilion is located on a small island in the palace's rear garden. It's a tranquil spot, and I found it to be the perfect place for a quiet moment of reflection, especially during the autumn when the leaves were a vibrant red.
Visitor Tips
My best advice for Gyeongbokgung is torent a hanbok. Not only is it a fun experience, but wearing a hanbok grants you free entry to the palace, which saves you a few thousand won! My friends and I did this, and it was so much fun taking photos and feeling like we were part of the scenery. I also recommend going on a weekday morning to avoid the huge crowds that gather on weekends. The heat in August can be intense, so bring water and a fan.
2. Changdeokgung Palace & Huwon: The Harmonious Retreat
While Gyeongbokgung was the political center, Changdeokgung was the favorite palace of many Joseon kings. Located to the east, it’s known for its harmonious integration with the surrounding nature, which is why it was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site. My visit here was entirely different from my Gyeongbokgung experience; it felt more like a peaceful retreat than a seat of power.
History & Significance
Built in 1405, Changdeokgung was used as the primary palace for nearly 300 years after Gyeongbokgung's destruction. Its design intentionally follows the natural topography, with buildings nestled into the hills and valleys rather than arranged symmetrically. This organic layout is what gives the palace its unique, peaceful atmosphere.
Key Highlights
- The Huwon (Secret Garden):This is, without a doubt, the main attraction. The Huwon is a vast, meticulously planned garden that was exclusively for the royal family's use. My personal journey to see the Huwon was a saga. I tried to book a tour online and they were all sold out for weeks. I finally managed to secure a spot by going to the palace early in the morning on a weekday and getting a same-day ticket. It was worth every bit of effort. The guided tour is mandatory, and our guide's stories about the royal family's life there brought the garden to life. The tranquil ponds, ancient trees, and quiet pavilions like the Buyongjeong and the Aeryeonjeong made me feel like I had discovered a true hidden gem.
- Donhwamun Gate:The main gate of Changdeokgung is the oldest of the palace gates in Seoul. Its grand wooden structure felt incredibly authentic and served as a perfect entrance to the palace's natural beauty.
Visitor Tips
My number one tip for Changdeokgung is tobook the Huwon tour in advance. It's the only way to get into the Secret Garden, and tickets sell out fast. If you can't book online, go early on a weekday and hope for a cancellation. Without the Huwon, you're missing the palace's soul.
3. Deoksugung Palace: The Palace of Two Worlds
Deoksugung, located in the heart of downtown Seoul, is a fascinating blend of traditional Korean and Western architecture. Its name, "Palace of Longevity and Virtue," reflects its unique history as a place of refuge for the late Joseon kings. Visiting here felt like stepping into a pivotal, transitional period of Korean history, caught between tradition and modernization.
History & Significance
Deoksugung was originally the residence of a royal family member but became a temporary palace for King Seonjo during the Imjin War. It later became the main residence for King Gojong, the last monarch of the Joseon Dynasty. It was here that he built Western-style buildings, symbolizing his desire to modernize the country.
Key Highlights
- Seokjojeon Hall:This Western-style stone building stands in stark contrast to the traditional Korean halls. I was so intrigued by its Greek-inspired columns and symmetrical design. Inside, it’s a museum showcasing the palace's history and the life of the last Joseon emperors.
- Jeonggwanheon Pavilion:This smaller, elegant pavilion also has Western influences, with its semicircular windows and subtle decorations. It was King Gojong's favorite place to relax, and I could feel the peaceful, private atmosphere he must have enjoyed.
- Changing of the Royal Guard Ceremony:Deoksugung also has its own guard changing ceremony, which is a bit different from Gyeongbokgung's and perhaps less crowded. It was a great opportunity for me to see the ritual up close without having to jostle for a spot.
Visitor Tips
Deoksugung is a smaller palace and very easy to access, right next to City Hall. I found it to be the perfect place for a quiet afternoon stroll when I didn't have much time. The juxtaposition of the traditional palace grounds against the backdrop of modern skyscrapers like Seoul City Hall and the surrounding office buildings is truly unique and makes for a great photo opportunity.
4. Changgyeonggung Palace: A Tale of Tragedy and Beauty
Changgyeonggung, located right next to Changdeokgung, has a more somber and tragic history. Originally built as a temporary palace and a residence for queens and concubines, it suffered greatly during the Japanese colonial period, when it was converted into a zoo and botanical garden. This history of disrespect and tragedy gives the palace a different kind of atmosphere—one of quiet reflection.
History & Significance
Changgyeonggung was a site of frequent political turmoil and power struggles. It was often a place of exile or confinement for royal family members. Its most tragic episode was during the Japanese occupation, when its beautiful gardens were replaced with a zoo to turn it into a public park. The name was even changed to "Changgyeongwon." Today, much of the palace has been restored, but that sad history still lingers in the air. I felt this somberness as I walked through its peaceful, less-crowded grounds. It's a place to contemplate the past, not just admire the architecture.
Key Highlights
- Myeongjeongjeon (Throne Hall):As the oldest main hall of all the grand palaces, Myeongjeongjeon is a testament to the palace’s long history. Its simple yet elegant design is a beauty to behold.
- The Grand Greenhouse:Built in 1909, this is the first Western-style greenhouse in Korea. It’s a beautiful building, and a visit inside feels like a step into a different era.
- A Quiet Stroll:What I loved most about Changgyeonggung was its peaceful atmosphere. It’s far less crowded than Gyeongbokgung, making it a perfect spot for a quiet walk and a moment of reflection. The large pond and the surrounding trees make it a serene escape from the city hustle.
Visitor Tips
Changgyeonggung is a great choice for those who have already seen the main palaces and are looking for a more peaceful, in-depth historical experience. I highly recommend visiting it on a sunny day to appreciate its natural beauty and the intricate details of the greenhouse.
5. Gyeonghuigung Palace: The Lost Palace
Gyeonghuigung is often called "the lost palace" because it was almost completely destroyed. It was a secondary palace, nicknamed the "Western Palace," and was home to ten kings during the Joseon Dynasty. Its complete obliteration by the Japanese colonial government and subsequent limited reconstruction makes it a poignant symbol of Korea's tumultuous past.
History & Significance
Built in the early 17th century, Gyeonghuigung served as a secondary palace, primarily for temporary residence during emergencies. However, its grand scale rivaled that of the main palace. Its destruction in the 20th century was so complete that only a handful of buildings survived, and its main gate, Heunghwamun, was even moved to another location. A partial restoration project began in the 1980s, but only a small portion of its former glory has been rebuilt.
Key Highlights
- Heunghwamun Gate:The main gate of Gyeonghuigung was moved to a different location and used for decades before being returned. It stands as a testament to the palace's resilience and a symbol of its tragic history.
- The Main Courtyard:What I found most interesting about Gyeonghuigung was its spaciousness. Because so few buildings remain, you get a powerful sense of its original scale. I was one of only a handful of visitors, which made my visit feel more personal and contemplative. It's a great place to imagine what the palace looked like in its prime.
Visitor Tips
Gyeonghuigung is the smallest and least-visited of the five. It's an ideal choice for visitors who have a keen interest in Korean history and want a quiet, reflective experience away from the crowds. It's located right next to the Seoul Museum of History, and visiting both makes for a fascinating afternoon exploring the city's past.
6. A Comparative Guide: Which Palace to Visit?
After visiting all five, I often get asked, "Which one should I go to?" The answer depends on what you're looking for. Here’s my personal breakdown:
- Gyeongbokgung:Best for first-timers and those who want to see the most iconic and grandest palace. It’s the "must-see" for a reason. Go here for the guard ceremony and the overall grand experience.
- Changdeokgung:Best for nature lovers and history buffs. The Huwon (Secret Garden) is a unique and incredibly beautiful experience that sets it apart. The guided tour is an essential part of the experience.
- Deoksugung:Best for a quick visit and a unique architectural blend. Its convenient downtown location and mix of traditional and Western styles make it a fascinating stop. It's a great place to feel the transition from old to new Korea.
- Changgyeonggung:Best for a quiet, reflective walk. If you've already seen the others and want to escape the crowds, this is the place to go. Its somber history gives it a profound atmosphere.
- Gyeonghuigung:Best for hardcore history enthusiasts who want a peaceful, off-the-beaten-path experience. Its quiet grounds and poignant history of destruction make it a powerful symbol of Korea’s past.
If you have time for only one, go to Gyeongbokgung. If you have time for two, go to Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. If you have time for more, I encourage you to see them all to fully appreciate the rich tapestry of Korean history.
7. Essential Visitor Tips for All Palaces
Based on my personal experience, these are the tips that will make your palace visits smoother and more enjoyable.
- Hanbok Rental:This is a game-changer. Renting a hanbok, the traditional Korean attire, not only makes for incredible photos but also grants you free admission to all five palaces. I highly recommend doing this for Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung. My friends and I had so much fun choosing our hanboks and walking around feeling like we were part of a historical drama.
- The Integrated Ticket:If you plan on visiting more than two palaces, consider purchasing the integrated ticket. It costs about 10,000 KRW and grants you admission to all five palaces, plus Jongmyo Shrine and the Seoul Museum of History. It’s a great deal and a huge convenience.
- Free Guided Tours:All the palaces offer free guided tours in various languages (English, Japanese, Chinese). The guides are incredibly knowledgeable and passionate. My experience with a guided tour at Gyeongbokgung made the history come alive; I learned so much more than I would have by just reading the signs.
- Wear Comfortable Shoes:You'll be doing a lot of walking! The palace grounds are vast and have uneven surfaces, so comfortable shoes are essential. I learned this the hard way on my first visit.
8. Beyond the Palaces: Connecting with Joseon History
The five palaces are not isolated historical sites; they are part of a larger historical ecosystem. To truly immerse yourself in the Joseon Dynasty, consider visiting these related sites:
- Jongmyo Shrine:This UNESCO World Heritage site is the royal ancestral shrine of the Joseon Dynasty. It’s where the kings and queens were enshrined and is a place of deep cultural significance. It’s a short walk from Changdeokgung, and you can visit it using the integrated ticket. My visit here was incredibly moving; the simplicity of the architecture contrasted with the solemnity of the place.
- Bukchon Hanok Village:Located between Gyeongbokgung and Changdeokgung, this village is where the high-ranking government officials and royal family members lived. Walking through its narrow alleys with traditional hanok houses gives you a real feel for what daily life might have been like for the Joseon elite.
- Seoul City Wall:A portion of the ancient Seoul City Wall runs along the hills behind the palaces. Hiking a section of the wall offers incredible views of the city and a chance to walk the same path as the city's ancient protectors.
Conclusion
Visiting the Five Grand Palaces of Seoul is more than just a tourist activity; it’s a journey into the heart of Korean history and culture. Each palace, with its unique story and atmosphere, offers a different window into the past. From the grandeur of Gyeongbokgung to the quiet tragedy of Changgyeonggung, these sites are not just old buildings—they are living monuments that tell the story of a resilient and beautiful nation. My personal travels through these palaces have left me with a deep appreciation for Korea's heritage, and I hope this guide helps you feel that same sense of wonder. So, put on your walking shoes, grab your integrated ticket, and get ready to be transported back in time.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
A1: Opening hours vary by palace and season, but generally, they are open from 9:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with the last admission an hour before closing. They are usually closed on Mondays or Tuesdays, so be sure to check the official websites.
Q2: Is it worth visiting all five palaces?
A2: Yes, each palace has a unique history and atmosphere. Gyeongbokgung is for scale and grandeur, Changdeokgung for nature, Deoksugung for architecture, Changgyeonggung for a peaceful stroll, and Gyeonghuigung for a poignant history lesson.
Q3: Can I enter the palaces for free?
A3: Yes, if you are wearing a hanbok (traditional Korean attire), you can enter all five palaces and Jongmyo Shrine for free. This is a very popular and recommended option.
Q4: Is the Huwon (Secret Garden) tour at Changdeokgung mandatory?
A4: Yes, the Huwon is only accessible through a guided tour, which must be booked in advance. It is highly recommended to book online weeks ahead of your visit.
Q5: What's the best time of year to visit the palaces?
A5: Spring and autumn are the best seasons. The cherry blossoms in spring and the colorful foliage in autumn make the palace grounds breathtakingly beautiful. The weather is also more comfortable.
Q6: What's the difference between the two royal guard changing ceremonies at Gyeongbokgung and Deoksugung?
A6: Gyeongbokgung’s ceremony is larger, more formal, and held at the main gate. Deoksugung’s is smaller and more intimate, held at Daehanmun Gate, and is easier to get a close-up view of.
Q7: How much does the integrated palace ticket cost?
A7: The integrated ticket costs 10,000 KRW and is valid for three months. It covers all five palaces, Jongmyo Shrine, and the Seoul Museum of History.
Q8: Are there English-speaking tours available?
A8: Yes, all five palaces offer free guided tours in English, as well as Japanese and Chinese. Check the official palace websites for the exact schedules.
Q9: Can I buy tickets at the palace gates?
A9: Yes, you can purchase individual tickets at the gates. However, the integrated ticket is often a better value if you plan to visit multiple sites.
Q10: Are the palaces accessible for people with disabilities?
A10: Most palaces have some accessible routes, but the grounds can be uneven with gravel paths and stairs. It’s best to check the official palace websites for detailed accessibility information before your visit.
